Bias Binding Tape 101: The Complete Guide for Apparel Designers

Bias binding tape may seem like a small detail, but for apparel designers, it's often the finishing touch that makes a significant difference in both functionality and aesthetics. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore what bias binding tape is, how it compares to other edge-finishing options, and why choosing the right one—such as specialized woven elastic tapes—can dramatically enhance your garment designs.

What is Bias Binding Tape?
Bias binding tape is a narrow fabric strip cut diagonally across the grain (at a 45-degree angle). This cutting technique provides stretch and flexibility, making bias binding tape ideal for curved or irregular edges where comfort and mobility are key. Unlike straight-grain tapes, bias tapes won't pucker, ensuring smooth finishes.
Bias binding tape is a fabric strip cut diagonally across the grain (at a 45-degree angle). This technique provides stretch and flexibility, making it ideal for curved or irregular edges where comfort and mobility are key. Unlike straight-grain tapes, bias tapes conform smoothly to the shape of the garment, avoiding puckering and ensuring a clean finish.
 

Types of Bias Binding Tapes
Single-fold Bias Tape
A single layer of fabric folded in half—ideal for lightweight edges and decorative seams.

Double-fold Bias Tape
Folded again to create two finished edges, offering a more structured and polished look with increased durability.

Elastic Bias Binding Tape
For applications requiring flexibility, elastic bias tapes excel. A good example is woven elastic tape 33H37-12M, a skin-friendly blend of nylon and elastane. Its ½-inch solid-color design is perfect for lingerie, where both comfort and appearance matter.

Why Use Bias Binding Tape in Apparel Design?
Designers utilize bias binding tape for various reasons:

• Enhancing garment durability by preventing fraying.
• Improving aesthetic appeal with clean, polished edges.
• Adding flexibility and comfort, especially important in lingerie, activewear, and athleisure garments.

Key Materials for Bias Binding Tapes
Bias binding tapes are typically made from cotton, silk, polyester, or stretch blends like nylon/elastane. Stretch blends, such as those used in 33H37-12M and 33285-12, offer exceptional recovery, softness, and support—ideal for intimate apparel and garments that demand both movement and structure.
 

Tips for Lingerie Manufacturers
Hemming Bias Tape for Lingerie
Bias tapes such as 33285-12 and 33285-15 are used to hem the upper and lower edges of lingerie. These tapes must balance stretch and recovery—keeping the lower hem in place during wear while allowing the upper edge to support the garment’s structure. This careful balance ensures the tape supports lace and fabric combinations while maintaining a polished, professional aesthetic.

Edge-Binding Tape for Enhanced Comfort
Soft, skin-friendly edge-binding tapes like 3387-13 (spaghetti strap style) offer excellent finishing for bra cups and panty leg openings. They enclose the fabric smoothly, preventing fraying and providing a non-irritating alternative to lace—ideal for consumers with sensitive skin or a preference for minimalism.
 

Tips for Apparel Manufacturers
Premium Bias Tape Solutions
ECI’s fold-over elastic tapes—33H68-22R and 33B07-20R—are premium choices for bias tape applications across lingerie, sportswear, and athleisure. These tapes offer:

• Superior stretch and recovery from nylon/elastane blends
• Secure, comfortable fit for straps, waistbands, or openings
• Matte finish and customizable colors for design versatility
• OEKO-TEX® 100 certification for eco-conscious brands

These fold-over tapes don’t just act as finishing tools—they can also replace traditional fabric-based bias tape. Unlike woven fabric that requires pre-cutting and sewing, ECI’s narrow fabric solutions are machine-set to precise dimensions, saving garment factories valuable lead time in production.

Creative Applications of Bias Binding Tape in Intimate Apparel
Bias binding tape does more than just finish edges—it empowers creativity:

• Ensures comfortable, non-irritating finishes
• Serves as a decorative waistband or chestband (e.g., 33285-12 for a smooth yet supportive fit)
• Enables expressive design with no sacrifice to comfort

Comparing Bias Binding Tape vs. Other Edge Finishing Options
While serging, hemming, or fold-over elastics are all valid edge finishing techniques, bias binding tape offers:

• Better flexibility on curves
• A cleaner, high-end look
• More customization opportunities in both fabric and form
   

Beyond Bias: Other Finishing Tape Options from ECI
Piping Tape
Often used in side hems of pants or shorts, piping tape wraps around cut fabric edges with an inserted cord. Its contrasting color adds structure and style, preventing fraying while enhancing garment definition.

Decorative Tape
Not just for looks, decorative tape can carry brand elements like logos or patterns. It’s also flexible, making it ideal for cuffs or other moving parts of the garment—merging visual identity with comfort and mobility.

Waistbands and Chestbands
Elastic waistbands (either exposed or encased) and chestbands elevate edge finishing with both support and fit, especially in activewear and intimate garments. Woven elastic options like 33285-12 deliver long-lasting performance while maintaining soft contact with the skin.

Sustainability & Quality in Bias Binding Tapes
Modern apparel design demands more than style—it requires responsibility. ECI’s woven elastic tapes like 33H37-12M and 33285-12 are certified under OEKO-TEX® Standard 100, meeting global standards for product safety and sustainability. This gives designers peace of mind—and a clear message to conscious consumers.
 

Enhance Your Designs Today
The right bias binding tape is more than a functional necessity—it’s an opportunity to elevate your garments. Whether you're designing lingerie, athleisure, or performance wear, premium woven elastic tapes can add value through comfort, durability, and design sophistication.
Get in touch with ECI Elastic to discover how our wide range of tapes—from fold-over to decorative, piping, and more—can enhance your next collection.